Just a few things thatd I`d like to add to past posts and some interesting new things. One: When i said I signed up for a four day Machu Pichu trek, thats not true. I was woken up by Irish Dan one morning...afternoon... after an epic drinking night and was informed that I would be hiking with him to Machu Pichu. Although still drunk, and slightly annoyed, at being woken up and being told I had to walk places. I couldn`t be happier at this point that Dan had done that. The trek turned out to be on of the coolest things I have done in South America. Machu Pichu is well worth one of the seven wonder of the world titles. Two: with regard to the "Death Road" bike ride outside of La Paz. I have met an extraordinary number or people who have been mildly or severly injured while doing it. Myself and my group were extremely lucky to get away from it. There will be more points later...onto some observations that I have been having lately or for a while.
South American pop music and music they play on bus rides is all crap. WE had to watch a music video with a guy dancing in a back yard wearing zebra striped pants and a under armor top sing the words "gracias señor" while shuffling back and forth for 20 mintues. I almost committed a hate crime. Groups of teenagers are more dangerous then a single reasonably scary looking adult. Getting sliced by a knife is not as glamarous as it seems in the movies, and it will bleed more than you think. Colombia is expensive, quite expensive. For a country that is barely on the tourist map, and doesn`t have a particulary wealthy populace , everything seems to be more expensive here than in other countries. Bogota is not the best place I`ve been. Ask Mike about it? The moral of the story do not accept drinks from Colombians you recently met or bartenders. I know, I know, you are thinking "good work dumbass." Listen nothing has ever gone wrong before. However, on that particular Saturday night, I ended up in a police station begging for a ride home. I was put in a police van, and driven back to my hostel. It was not a direct ride. The Bogota police decided it would be fun to drop the Gringo, me, off in every ghetto between where I was and my hostel. There were six of them. I counted. They forced me out and would then drive around for a little while before coming back and finding me. This was not a fun game. I dont know why, but they though it was the greatest thing ever. All I know is that night, which started off with some rum and a few games of bowling ended in sheer terror and mayhem. Welcome to Bogota. If you are wondering...Mike`s night was not that much better then mine, considering he cant remeber any of it. Thats just a little of Colombia for you to keep you interested.
Oh yeah, the title of this blog entry comes from the fact that in the bathroom of our room in Cali, the sink and mirror were in the shower on the same side of the wall as the shower which had no shower head. That was a new one or me. The no shower head thing is not uncommon the sink in the shower totally new. I guess you can save money on piping. Which costs 6 cents a foot. Its a big investment I guess. Maybe if everything else wasnt so expensive in this country they could move the sink out of the shower. It was new and interesting tho. Finally, if you ever come to South America, and a hostel or hotel, I use that word loosely, says they have hot water and/or water pressure, dont believe them. I have taken some very cold very weak showers in some very cold places. Its not fun. Oh yeah, make sure you pack a towel on your backpacking travels as well. I didnt. Im tired of drying myself with a T-shirt.
Sorry this entry is a little scatter brained, but there are people waiting for the computer and I felt I owed everyone some Colombian info. Like I always say there will be more later
Friday, March 14, 2008
Thursday, March 13, 2008
If smoking doesn`t kill you a South American bus ride will
So, Mancora, Ecuador. Let me tell you. That place is awful. I could use more words to describe it but my blog may be taken down for inappropriate content. Among the many problems of the this beach town, which from afar or in photos looks wonderful, was the massive insect population. The town was alive. Every night when the sun went down the city was over taken by beetles that could probably eat small dogs, and hordes of mosquitoes that seemed to be impervious to smoke, fire, and bullets. After dark the city seemed to be alive. The corpses of those beetles were scattered by the thousand all over the streets, and if you ventured to far away from the cool ocean breeze the mosquito army would devour you. The worst part was the number of beetles that would scamper around the restaurants. More then once, I found a large black beetle crawling up my leg, or someone would spot one on my back, mid-meal. It was disconcerting to say the least. Another guy and I also saw a very small boy throwing rocks at three of the many vultures that lived in the city. The boy was either playing or trying to fend them off. Mind you, these birds were each large enough to pick up our young friend and eat him. Its probably happened before. We kept walking. We didnt see the boy or the birds later...I still wonder who won that battle? But hey, not every place you go can be a walk in the park.
We ended up leaving Mancora, and we decided to go to Cuenca, Ecuador. Ecuador was a welcome change from Peru, I have to say. It was also kind of nice to use dollars again, the official currency in Ecuador. Its amazing how little things can improve your mood or opinion of a place. We stayed in a pretty noisy hostel, which turned out to be in a questionable part of town. We learned that after getting robbed at knife point which was interesting. We were all stripped of our cash, and Dan had to part with his watch. Shit happens though, and sometimes there is just no way out of it.
From there it was to Baños, Ecuador where we checked out one of South Americas most active volcanoes. There had been a minor eruption two weeks before we went to the city, and it was still smoking when we drove some miniature dune buggy`s up to a look out point to view the top. in 2006, the whole town of Baños was evacuated as well as the surrounding areas because of a major eruption that destroyed a good portion of the area. Second to Iguazu Falls, I`d have to say a smoking volcano is the most impressive natural wonder I've seen.
From Baños, we went to Quito, Ecuador which is the capital. It also happens to be the second highest capital in the world, behind La Paz, Bolivia. (interesting side note: Amsterdam is the world`s lowest city). Quito was cold and rainy. I forgot to mention that March is the rainy season in Ecuador. For those of you that have never experienced a rainy season, it is as miserable as it sounds. It rains all day every day, with the rare appearance of the sun for a few minutes every few days. I would compare Ecuador in the rainy season to England, all year round. The highlight of Quito, Id have to say, after walking across small wooden bridges and climbing up unstable and rusting metal ladders to reach the top of the cathedral`s towers would have to be going to the Equator. Well technically, it was the fake Equator, but don't tell anyone. Ecuador some time in the last half a century built a little town and a monument on the "equatorial line". So, you can go there and walk from one season to another or one hemisphere to the other and take a bunch of touristy pictures like in every other tourist trap that you can visit. However, thanks to the invention of GPS it was discovered that Ecuador`s equatorial town is actually not on the equator. The geniuses who labeled the equator however long ago when they built the town, were actually 200 meters off. So, this town and this monument and everything else is in the wrong place. No one will bother to change it though, and I'm sure that the town will never really lose it popularity because you can get a better photo there than at the real equator. Its a shame really, but hey I got some cool photos, ha. Ironically enough, the ancient civilizations that had lived in that area knew the exact or correct location of the equator and had even marked it but the scientists who found the "fake" equator thought they knew better than the natives. Ancient civilizations: 3 Modern civilizations: 0. (ancient civilizations first point goes to building buildings that do not collapse in earthquakes like the colonial houses did...the second point is knowing how to grow crops without causing landslides which still plague these countries today) When will people learn that the Incas, their contemporaries, and the civilizations that existed before and after them knew what they were doing. I dunno. In the end, Ecuador was OK. considering it was raining for the majority of my stay in the country, and I also had to contend with a sickness from hell. I will spare you all the details of my illness, but lets just say I was not in any shape to enjoy much of anything...it could have been better. At some point later in my life, I think I will come back down here for a few weeks, and try to do all the things that the rain and the death bug that invaded my stomach prevented me from doing. Ecuador certainly has some potential.
Leaving Quito, we had our sights set on Cali, Colombia. We realized however it would take us about two days to get there. Normally we would have tried to do it in one day but night buses are not recommended in Colombia. Especially in areas where rebel groups such as FARC are known to be active. Now, these groups are active in practically every part of the country, but near the Ecuadorian border and the Darien Gap they happen to be constantly on the move and causing problems. So night bus from Quito was out of the question. So it took us two days to get to Cali. WE went Quito to Pasto, Colombia and then Pasto to Cali. WE spent about 21 hours ou of 48 in a very small, very cramped two buses trying to get to Cali. It was painful...not to mention one of the scariest experiences of my life. The bus ride from Pasto to Cali took 10.5 hours. We were on a mini bus, which is basically an American short bus. There were too many seats on the bus (which meant your knees where in your chest for the duration of the ride), they were not very comfortable, and as usual there were more people then there were seats scattered all over the bus in every available inch of space. We also insisted on stopping and picking up every hitchhiker and homeless person we saw between the two cities. On top of all this, our driver insisted on driving a a frighteningly fast pace. Right out of the bus station we were at full speed. Our driver must have been on drugs that would be the only way he could justify driving the way he did. Right from the start we were catapulting down very small roads at jaw dropping speeds with the horn blaring. It was all or nothing for this guy. I'm surprised we didn´t kill anyone or get killed ourselves. The driver also insisted on taking every single turn at speed just so everyone in the back could feel the G´s peeling the skin from their faces and turning their stomachs inside out. I am actually sore today from being fully tensed for all 10.5 hours of that ride yesterday. The driver also insisted on passing every vehicle in front of us, regardless of whether or not we were going around blind corners or down impossibly steep hills, or even on bridges. It was fun. More then once the passengers would be slammed into the seat in front of them because we attempted a pass only to realize, with mere seconds to spare before death, that there was a truck heading for us and the pass was impossible. So the logical thing to do? Slam on the breaks as hard as you can, jerk the wheel right with such force we almost end up on two wheels, and hope the space you left on your side of the road when you began the pass is still there because if it isn't there are two options. Side swipe the vehicle who has rudely moved into open road that once belonged to you. Or play chicken with the oncoming truck when there is no shoulder on the road to bail out too, just canyon on one side and rocks on the other. Thankfully we always chose the hard swerve back into our own lane, and luckily we never side swiped anyone off the road. Size has right of way on these roads by the way...so motorcycle driver beware. To add to an already mind numbingly dangerous and painful bus ride, we were forced to lsiten to Samba or Salsa music for the duration of the ride. Not at a low volume either...loud. Seat belts arent necessary in this country, headlights are optional at night (you can always sell the bulbs to make some loot, and keeping them off "saves gas" from what ive been told), but there has to be shitty music playing in your vehicle loud enough so everyone can feel their eardrums near bursting. Its a terrible system. (as a car drives by my internet cafe right now with his music at full blast...jerk off). But hey lets look on the bright side. I made it here. Colombia is looking like its gonna be fun. Talk to you all later.
We ended up leaving Mancora, and we decided to go to Cuenca, Ecuador. Ecuador was a welcome change from Peru, I have to say. It was also kind of nice to use dollars again, the official currency in Ecuador. Its amazing how little things can improve your mood or opinion of a place. We stayed in a pretty noisy hostel, which turned out to be in a questionable part of town. We learned that after getting robbed at knife point which was interesting. We were all stripped of our cash, and Dan had to part with his watch. Shit happens though, and sometimes there is just no way out of it.
From there it was to Baños, Ecuador where we checked out one of South Americas most active volcanoes. There had been a minor eruption two weeks before we went to the city, and it was still smoking when we drove some miniature dune buggy`s up to a look out point to view the top. in 2006, the whole town of Baños was evacuated as well as the surrounding areas because of a major eruption that destroyed a good portion of the area. Second to Iguazu Falls, I`d have to say a smoking volcano is the most impressive natural wonder I've seen.
From Baños, we went to Quito, Ecuador which is the capital. It also happens to be the second highest capital in the world, behind La Paz, Bolivia. (interesting side note: Amsterdam is the world`s lowest city). Quito was cold and rainy. I forgot to mention that March is the rainy season in Ecuador. For those of you that have never experienced a rainy season, it is as miserable as it sounds. It rains all day every day, with the rare appearance of the sun for a few minutes every few days. I would compare Ecuador in the rainy season to England, all year round. The highlight of Quito, Id have to say, after walking across small wooden bridges and climbing up unstable and rusting metal ladders to reach the top of the cathedral`s towers would have to be going to the Equator. Well technically, it was the fake Equator, but don't tell anyone. Ecuador some time in the last half a century built a little town and a monument on the "equatorial line". So, you can go there and walk from one season to another or one hemisphere to the other and take a bunch of touristy pictures like in every other tourist trap that you can visit. However, thanks to the invention of GPS it was discovered that Ecuador`s equatorial town is actually not on the equator. The geniuses who labeled the equator however long ago when they built the town, were actually 200 meters off. So, this town and this monument and everything else is in the wrong place. No one will bother to change it though, and I'm sure that the town will never really lose it popularity because you can get a better photo there than at the real equator. Its a shame really, but hey I got some cool photos, ha. Ironically enough, the ancient civilizations that had lived in that area knew the exact or correct location of the equator and had even marked it but the scientists who found the "fake" equator thought they knew better than the natives. Ancient civilizations: 3 Modern civilizations: 0. (ancient civilizations first point goes to building buildings that do not collapse in earthquakes like the colonial houses did...the second point is knowing how to grow crops without causing landslides which still plague these countries today) When will people learn that the Incas, their contemporaries, and the civilizations that existed before and after them knew what they were doing. I dunno. In the end, Ecuador was OK. considering it was raining for the majority of my stay in the country, and I also had to contend with a sickness from hell. I will spare you all the details of my illness, but lets just say I was not in any shape to enjoy much of anything...it could have been better. At some point later in my life, I think I will come back down here for a few weeks, and try to do all the things that the rain and the death bug that invaded my stomach prevented me from doing. Ecuador certainly has some potential.
Leaving Quito, we had our sights set on Cali, Colombia. We realized however it would take us about two days to get there. Normally we would have tried to do it in one day but night buses are not recommended in Colombia. Especially in areas where rebel groups such as FARC are known to be active. Now, these groups are active in practically every part of the country, but near the Ecuadorian border and the Darien Gap they happen to be constantly on the move and causing problems. So night bus from Quito was out of the question. So it took us two days to get to Cali. WE went Quito to Pasto, Colombia and then Pasto to Cali. WE spent about 21 hours ou of 48 in a very small, very cramped two buses trying to get to Cali. It was painful...not to mention one of the scariest experiences of my life. The bus ride from Pasto to Cali took 10.5 hours. We were on a mini bus, which is basically an American short bus. There were too many seats on the bus (which meant your knees where in your chest for the duration of the ride), they were not very comfortable, and as usual there were more people then there were seats scattered all over the bus in every available inch of space. We also insisted on stopping and picking up every hitchhiker and homeless person we saw between the two cities. On top of all this, our driver insisted on driving a a frighteningly fast pace. Right out of the bus station we were at full speed. Our driver must have been on drugs that would be the only way he could justify driving the way he did. Right from the start we were catapulting down very small roads at jaw dropping speeds with the horn blaring. It was all or nothing for this guy. I'm surprised we didn´t kill anyone or get killed ourselves. The driver also insisted on taking every single turn at speed just so everyone in the back could feel the G´s peeling the skin from their faces and turning their stomachs inside out. I am actually sore today from being fully tensed for all 10.5 hours of that ride yesterday. The driver also insisted on passing every vehicle in front of us, regardless of whether or not we were going around blind corners or down impossibly steep hills, or even on bridges. It was fun. More then once the passengers would be slammed into the seat in front of them because we attempted a pass only to realize, with mere seconds to spare before death, that there was a truck heading for us and the pass was impossible. So the logical thing to do? Slam on the breaks as hard as you can, jerk the wheel right with such force we almost end up on two wheels, and hope the space you left on your side of the road when you began the pass is still there because if it isn't there are two options. Side swipe the vehicle who has rudely moved into open road that once belonged to you. Or play chicken with the oncoming truck when there is no shoulder on the road to bail out too, just canyon on one side and rocks on the other. Thankfully we always chose the hard swerve back into our own lane, and luckily we never side swiped anyone off the road. Size has right of way on these roads by the way...so motorcycle driver beware. To add to an already mind numbingly dangerous and painful bus ride, we were forced to lsiten to Samba or Salsa music for the duration of the ride. Not at a low volume either...loud. Seat belts arent necessary in this country, headlights are optional at night (you can always sell the bulbs to make some loot, and keeping them off "saves gas" from what ive been told), but there has to be shitty music playing in your vehicle loud enough so everyone can feel their eardrums near bursting. Its a terrible system. (as a car drives by my internet cafe right now with his music at full blast...jerk off). But hey lets look on the bright side. I made it here. Colombia is looking like its gonna be fun. Talk to you all later.
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